We meet The Angel
Bens’ Wine Bar and Tapas moved on at the end of 2023 and taking over the space is The Angel Bar & Kitchen. A combination of three enthusiastic business women who have come together to make this exciting venture work using their 70 years (combined) experience at the top of Totnes High Street. I popped over there last week to meet Claire Callendar, Claire Limberg and Nicky Bell plus Morag the dog. They flatly refused to have a group photo, so if you need to know what they look like, you will have to go to the restaurant.
The restaurant has changed to darker more autumnal, cosy nook style featuring an almost punk, very theatrical space that is both intriguing and welcoming. After 5 months of hard work, they have now opened up the garden space and the front pavement area to increase the downstairs areas.
The Angel Bar and the Angel Space (in South Street) is no co-incidence as this was run by Nicky and Claire (Limberg) and often featured events where they provided food and drink through a pop-up. They actually wanted to expand that side of things at the space but were sadly thwarted by neighbours objecting to potential noise.
So when Ben’s became available they committed with the other Claire, at making the bar and restaurant happen and by early March they were underway.
I asked them how they would describe the cuisine and made a schoolboy error in suggesting ‘World-Tapas‘. This was recieved with considerable derision and potentially, a swift end to the conversation… “deffo not tapas” says Nicky – “A menu inspired by seasonal produce and whatever’s tickling the chefs fancy at the time”
That’s Arthur who has been working in South Africa, cooking for 14 years and owned his own restaurant. “At his request we have a gold leafed kitchen at The Angel Bar and Kitchen. Our menu is tweaked (or changes) weekly to keep it inspiring and exciting for all“.
Having tasted the food there, I can confirm that he definitely knows what he’s doing! The massive king prawns in a coconut and African style sauce were gorgeous paired up with crispy crushed new potatoes made for a lovely combination. And in my defence, this is where my ‘tapas’ thing comes from. It’s not just that the previous owner did it, it’s also because the menu features both small items and bigger main dishes that totally invite sharing. What is different is that the bigger dishes are definitely ‘mains’. It’s an unusual menu as it doesn’t impose how you want to have your meal – you can decide that for yourself but it’s worth checking with your server if you might have overdone it!
I asked if anything surprised the small team since taking on the business? Nicky again; “How our vision organically evolved over the 6 months it took to come into fruition. The support we’ve had from the town from the word go. The clarity we had about certain aspects, for example the food, the decor, what we were looking for in our team and how quickly and easily our team came together.”
What’s it like opening an ambitious new venture now, considering the current financial climate? “fucking terrifying, who would do it ” Claire C explains… So why did you start this? “We wanted somewhere to go in town and we couldn’t find it, so we built it ourselves.”. 5 months into the project it seems the anxiety has been alleviated.. “We’re absolutely delighted with the response [to the restaurant]”. She adds “…and i am endlessly surprised and blown away by our team, they are golden, kitchen and front of house ”
Anyone not familiar with the building would be forgiven for thinking the place is tiny from looking in the window from the street. In fact it’s pretty big with two decadently decorated dining areas upstairs as well as a garden seating area out back. Eating out for an evening feels like an event and Claire especially enjoys the hospitality side of the business; “I love charming people who come here!”
It’s not cheap, this isn’t budget dining however, with three of us for an evening meal spending £80 including a tip, that doesn’t seem expensive – we didn’t have any drinks other that the complimentary water served in a beautiful decanter. We were all full and the food was fabulous.
So who’s behind the very artistic decor? No-one was taking specific credit and they say they worked it all out between themselves. Even the toilets have a gothic art-deco vibe to them.
Highly recommended!