Graham to John o’Groats – DAY FIVE – Arrival!

14th March 2025 Graham Walker

This morning, in Inverness, I was more than reluctant to leave the comfort of my B+B. But, reluctantly, I did.

At 6.30 am, my holier than before shoes and I walked about an half hour to get us to the A9 to hitch the final 120 miles to Taigh Iain Ghrota (That’s John o’ Groats to you Sassenachs).
The A9 North junction at Inverness, from a Hitchhiking perspective, was positively user-unfriendly. A dual carriageway where it was a little risky for cars to stop. So stood on a grass bank, my thumb and I, once again, set about our business. Miraculously, in no time at all, a car gave a welcoming beep and pulled up a few yards past me. This would be my first female chauffer.

Yvonne was a palliative care nurse at the Highland Hospice and was headed home after finishing a night shift. So, just 16 miles later, having passed the snow-capped mountains at Craigdon and the bridge over the Cromaty firth, Yvonne dropped me off in a large lay-by she thought might be suitable for hitchhiking. A lay-by that proved to be the most isolated and inhospitable hitchhiking spots of my entire journey.
Using my incredible hitchhiking expertise, I walked back up the dual carriageway 200 yards and stood on the grass verge. The thinking behind this was that vehicles driving towards me would have about five seconds to see me, compute what was going on and make a decision and then, if that decision was to stop,they had a couple of seconds to slow down and turn into the lay-by to pick me up.

' being kindly driven by Yvonne, past snow capped mountains, to isolation and the worst hitchhiking pitch ever' — being kindly driven by Yvonne, past snow capped mountains, to isolation and the worst hitchhiking pitch ever

Sadly there was no ‘pick me up’!

Two hours later, with the Scottish air turning decidedly bitter, I alternated between two thumbs, hitching with one whilst warming the redundant one in my pocket. Looking around, I realised I was totally isolated. Other than the wildlife and the vehicles whizzing past me,many of whom beeping in appreciation of the entertaining sight of a Top Hat and tailed, illuminated hitchhiker freezing to death, there was nothing for miles and no path on the carriageway for me and my wheelie suitcase to escape. I was stuffed!

Then, simultaneously, Two thoughts entered my head. The first, a thought that screamed; “Graham. You’re 70. What the friggin’ hell are you doing? To fundraise you could have simply sat in a bath of baked beans for a week, shaved your head or did a week-long sponsored sleep in a centrally heated room nestled neath a 15 tog duvet.” The other thought was on how useless I am at survival. Although, when homeless, and having experienced rough sleeping for some time, my survival skills and instinct are nevertheless devoid of any skills whatsoever and completely lacking in instinct. So, knowing at some stage I would be hiking through the Scottish highlands, Alongside my Top Hat and tails outfit, I’d packed underwear, socks, a pair of shiny(now holey) shoes and five tee shirts!

It was now 10am. I’d been stood here for over 2 ½ hours. I was cold and getting a tad concerned.

Then, a car passed, as they all seemed in the habit of doing. But this car stopped, rather precariously, just after the lay-by. It then slowly reversed back into the lay-by. Was this a potential lift I wondered. The car continued to slowly reverse along the Lay-by towards me. The nearer it got the more optimisic I became. Then it stopped, a door opened and the driver beckoned me. Grabbing my suitcase, I ran to the vehicle. “Thankyou so, so much” I screamed, thinking, if I only get a lift to a local village and warm up in the car for a while would be absolutely magical.

Placing myself and my suitcase in the back, I was welcomed by a lady in the passenger seat. “Where are you going” she asked. In an almost defeated tone I replied, “John O’ Groats‘. Her response not only stunned me but, were I able to stand, I would undoubtedly be jumping for joy, “SO ARE WE.” said Sonia. So here I was, saved from freezing in the Scottish Highlands and being thawed out by Sonia and Robert.

After 20 minutes or so of me offering humble gratitude, we settled in to our 105 mile journey. Sonia and Robert were from Brighton. Having flown to Inverness, they were visiting Robert’s half sister in Inverness: A half sister he’d only just discovered existed and would be meeting for the first time tomorrow. Whilst up here they, fortunately for me, decided to visit John O Groats.
With Robert concentrating on tackling the now winding A9, Sonia and I chatted. Well, mostly Sonia actually. Not that I’m complaining. It was a relief not to be questioned on my past and unsure of the response. Yes, Sonia, was full of vivacity and adventure and I realised it was solely her decision to stop and pick me up. Sonia for whatever reason, was exhilarated to have me as a passenger and on regular occasion ‘video called’ various friends and relatives to eagerly announce she’d picked up a hitchhiker. Each time insisting I put on my illuminated Top Hat and wave to the shocked strangers on her screen.

Then, at 12.48 precisely, we arrived: John O’ Groats!!!

Whilst it would have been nice to hang around for a while, Sonia and Robert, after a visit to the loo and taking photos, were cold and ready to leave, offering me a lift back to Wick, some 16 miles. I really couldn’t refuse. On arriving at Wick, it was a long and emotional affair saying bon voyage to Sonia and Robert who I’d grown very fond of; those who had not only got me to John O’ Groats, but in doing so, rescued me from the perils of the Scottish Highlands.

It was now 2pm. I was hungry. Going online, I booked a room for the night and found a pub serving hot food. I went for the ‘Freshly caught Haggis, neaps and tatties‘. Even though hungry, a meal that seemed to consist of spicy mincemeat, potato, mashed swede with a large splosh of granular gravy. Not complaining of course. After all, were it not for Sonia and Robert, I could be now, an illuminated frozen monolith on the side of the A9; the most isolated and inhospitable hitchhiking spots ever.

Graham is raising funds for Bob the Bus and Totnes Caring and the crowdfunder link is here: https://www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/graham-walker-998